Hangboard Repeaters

Hangboard repeaters are a timed finger-strength drill used mainly by climbers. You hang from a hangboard for short work periods with brief rests in between, repeating the cycle to build endurance in your forearm and finger flexors. Your shoulders and lats help keep your body stable. Because this drill puts high stress on the small tendons in your fingers, it is best suited to people with several years of climbing experience.

Set up beneath a securely mounted hangboard. Choose an edge or pocket depth and a grip style - such as half-crimp or open-hand - that you can hold without strain. Grip the board with both hands, let your arms hang straight, and pull your shoulders down and back so they stay engaged. Keep your body directly under the board with your feet off the ground, or place your feet on a support if you need less load.

To perform one set, hang for about seven seconds. Relax your grip for about three seconds while still keeping your fingers on the board, then pull back into the hang. Repeat this six times to complete the set. Rest for two to three minutes, then do three to five total sets. Keep the same grip position for every rep and every set.

Breathe steadily throughout each set rather than holding your breath. Keep your core lightly braced so your body does not swing. To make it easier, keep one or both feet on a stool or the floor to reduce load on your fingers. To make it harder, use a smaller edge or slow down how quickly you pull back into each hang.

Fault: Letting your shoulders shrug up toward your ears. Fix: Before each hang, pull your shoulder blades down and back, and think about creating space between your shoulders and your ears.

Fault: Changing grip position or wrist angle during the set. Fix: Pick one grip at the start and keep your finger alignment and wrist position the same for all six reps and all sets.

Fault: Continuing through sharp or sudden finger pain. Fix: Stop the set immediately if you feel sharp pain, swelling, or a pulling sensation in a finger. Only resume when the area feels normal again and the chosen grip is comfortable.